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4月28日

iTunes and making a CD.

I had my back surgery to fix a badly herniated disk last week. The long wait times in Canada's medical system has assured permanent nerve damage as the left part of my left foot is still numb. The surgeon thinks it could still heal slowly but would probably take a year or so before I get all the feeling back. So here I am recovering from surgery and bored out of my ears. At least I can sit up and type on the computer. My friend Kathy wanted a recording of "Grease" from LP. She has a copy on LP and I have one too. So no copyright infringement is being made here. I do not advocate pirating music, but the record companies have resorted to stealing from me nonetheless. In Canada, they charge a copyright tax on blank media whether you're copying music or storing data. I've been buying most of my pre-recorded music direct from the artists, particularly local artists that I like, of late. Michael Kaeshammer and John Gilliat are a couple of local to Vancouver artists that I enjoy very much. I would much rather the money go to the artists than to the recording companies. So I decided I would make the copy of Grease and see if all those "audiophile" tests on iTunes are true. Is iTunes is the way of the future of music management. The album contains 2 LPs, but a quick ballpark sum of the recording times suggested that both LPs would fit on one CD. Using my setup, I copied and editted the tracks onto the MAC using a program called Audacity and generated WAV files of all the songs. It occured to me the iTunes has its own codecs so I decided to see if the codecs on iTunes was any good. I uploaded the music to iTunes and for comparison sake, copied them to my PC also. I burned a CD from iTunes and also burned a copy from the PC using CD Creator. I used the PC because it has a newer burner and burns CDs much faster than my MAC. Then did a comparison listen of both. I have a fairly decent audio system. Not absolute "high end" stuff, but pretty good and a good step up from your run of the mill Sony, Panasonic or JVC systems. The iTunes CD was warmed over and lost some of its dynamics. When the trumpets first blast out at the very beginning of the CD, the PC copy almost makes me jump out of my seat. The CD from the MAC didn't. Olivia Newton-John's voice was also raspier (or is that squeakier) on the PC version than the iTunes version. Her voice was definitely smoother on the iTunes version. Too warmed over, actually. The soundstage was also noticeably smaller from the iTunes version. I would suspect all the programming in iTunes to make sure we're not "stealing" music has made iTunes a decent music management program. But it messes with the music. I'm disappointed in the sound quality. However, Kathy's opinion was, she could hear the difference in a side by side comparison. But in her car or played alone without a benchmark, she probably doesn't care. For the non-audiophile, which is the vast majority of the music buyers out there, that's exactly what Apple and the music companies want to hear. Why else would they be wanting to sell you multiple copies of the same songs over and over again with quality of sound definitely nowhere near the quality of the original master? On the other hand, to make my own CDs for playing in the car or other audio device, it was a simple case of clicking on the songs I want and dragging them into an "Album" and clicking on the burn button. I guess when I really want good sound quality and will sit down and listen to some of the music I have, I would pull out an LP or a CD and actually play it on a good system. But if I want to take the music with me and play it where there is a lot of noise outside, like in a car, it isn't that difficult to copy it to my computer and then transferring it to CD or music player. There should be no need to "buy" multiple copies of the same recording. But my general conclusion is pretty well the same as most of the audiophile reviewers. The iPOD and Apple's iTUnes is not quite ready for prime time as a music source yet.
4月4日

A thicker rear anti-sway bar

Sometimes referred to as swaybar, an anti-sway bar (I will probably end up using these two contradicting terms interchangeably) is a bar that links the left suspension to the right side of the suspension in a car.  This has the effect if limiting the amount of lean in a car when turning.  Most production cars from the factory have a "safety factor" built into their suspensions that causes a car to understeer.  Understeer is when going at speed, the car resists turning when you turn your steering wheel.  The effect is you have to slow down to make your turn.  Limiting the lean on the rear suspension of a car would shift the center of gravity on your car such that understeer is reduced.  There's lots of physics and math to prove this and I won't go into those gory details here.
 
The MINI already handles well out of the box.  But I remember a number of times, while taking a corner rather fast, that the understeer was definitely present and I had to slow down.  So there are two ways to make your car get from points A to B faster.  Firstly is to add more power.  Secondly you could make your car get around the turns faster. 
 
To get more power, the biggest bang for the buck is a supercharger reduction pulley.  I chose note to go this route because when you add power, you need to make a few minor compromises in fuel mileage, and in some cases (though I have heard not the case with the MINI Cooper S) engine reliability and longevity.   Also, adding power requires a balanced approach.  If the chassis can't handle it, you're in for some major problems.  Hence adding a reduction pulley is probably a long term project in progress.  You should also add a crank pulley, bigger fuel injectors, better engine breathing with a Cold air intake and exhaust system,  and of great importance, brakes.  
 
I was told a thicker anti-swaybar does to your car's suspension what a reduction pulley does for engine power output.  So I thought this was a good way to go with out the need for other major changes to balance out the change.   So enter the Alta Performance 22mm rear anti-swaybar.

I bought and had it installed while at AMVIV in Las Vegas.  There was a bit of a price war on go-fast parts.  Alta Performance were selling swaybars for $169US installed.  Reduction pulleys were also on for $165US installed!  Adding 30 horsepower to your car for $165.00 is actually considered a bargain.

The Alta swaybar is big and red.  It definitely attracts attention like big red brake rotors.   I couldn't decide between the 22mm or the 19mm bars.  As I don't race my car, I couldn't help but think the 19mm would have been more appropriate.  However, Alta recommended the 22mm for my purposes as I would notice a bigger difference.  Mine is mounted at the softest setting (it is adjustable) and I think I will leave it there until I am confident with the change in handling.  Incidentally, the factory swaybar is 17mm.

Of immediate notice, the understeer is gone.  The car changes direction at speed.  I found it amusing watching the rearview mirrors of drivers in front of me in corners as their eyes widen in panic as my MINI closes in on them in the corners, even at slower city speeds.  My car now turns as fast as it can go straight.   I don't notice the suspension being much stiffer than before either.  It was already pretty firm to start with.

Of getting used to, I need to relearn how to respond to off slanted roads when I hit a bump.  I noticed that if I hit a bump that suddenly lightens up the car while turning, this causes the car to revert very briefly back to its understeer tendencies and I get that sensation of suddenly going in a straight line somewhat sideways.  It's suddenly apparent how fast the car was rotating at that brief moment.  It is kind of fun, but if not careful, could be dangerous. 

I am also being cognizant that in the stock suspension, our cars understeer and give plenty of warning when the tires might meet its cornering limits.  With a thicker rear swaybar, there may be no such warning.  The rear tires can just give and I might find myself in a spin or oversteer situation.

Those of you into autocrossing (solo slaloms), adding a swaybar or a pulley will bump up up a class as the performance gain is noticeable.  But those wanting a performance gain in your car without spending a lot of money, a swaybar (or anti-swaybar) is good bang for the buck.